Our writer explores an adventure curated by the Orang Asli, a “dream come true” ecotourism venture packed with Jakun folklore, culture, and stunning waterfalls.

“I hope more people will come and enjoy the forest,” says my guide Nash as we walked the trail to a waterfall. I am told that this is not just any waterfall, but one imbued with the folklore and history of the Jakun people—an Orang Asli community in Kuala Rompin, southeast Pahang. “People need to see the environment and appreciate it before it all goes away,” he adds. Nash’s worry isn’t hyperbole, the encroachment of the outside world is evident in the trail we were walking on. The mud path is worn from four-wheel drive vehicles that have gouged deep scars on the trail to our campsite. 

Day 1: Meeting Zhe Ngingoig

Nash is part of Zhe Ngingoig, a team of Jakun Orang Asli from Kampung Sungai Mok working hard to get an ecotourism adventure programme off the ground. ‘Zhe Ngingoig’ means ‘happy walking’ or ‘happy journeys’ in Jakun. And I was pleased to find out what was in store.

My journey had started earlier that morning, arriving at Kampung Sungai Mok and meeting the Jakun guides at the village hall. The itinerary was simple—we would hike to our campsite, set up camp, have lunch, followed by a trek to a waterfall before returning to camp for the night. The next day would be a walk to another waterfall before finally leaving for the village. Straightforward and concise.

The enchanting Jaang waterfall

Nash’s pace is fast but I keep up with him. He seems driven by excitement, an eagerness to show us his culture, heritage and the wonderment that lies just ahead. Inspired, I quickened my steps. The unmistakable roar of the waterfall reached my ears before I could see it. 

The Jaang waterfall is a sight to behold. Looming like an ancient temple, the rock slabs look almost man-made. Water poured from the centre of the curved stone structure, emptying into a wide pool below. Plants and vines grew from the gaps between rocks, the roots hung low like a long-forgotten sacred place of worship. The wall of rocks stopped just before the waterline making the waterfall seem like it was hovering over the pool. 

The otherworldly nature of this place is probably why the Jakun have a high regard for the Jaang waterfall and its surroundings. According to the Orang Asli, guardians protect the forest and all its treasures, and its protection and reverence must not be taken lightly. Certainly, when one stands before a sight like the Jaang waterfall, adoration, devotion and appreciation for nature comes easily.

My fellow hikers quickly jumped into the pool, as did some of our guides. It was a warm day and the soothing crisp water was just the thing our fatigued bodies needed. We enjoyed the waterfall for a few hours and we felt a little sorry when it was time to leave. 

The walk back to our campsite took 30 minutes and there was excited chatter all the way. Our campground was by a river and it was spacious enough to accommodate ten tents and hammocks, with room to spare. The Zhe Ngingoig team had constructed a changing room, a toilet and even a long table for family-style dining. 

Traditional campfire tales

On the menu that evening was a delicious chicken soup cooked with Kulim nuts—also known as ‘bawang hutan’ or jungle garlic, that had the distinct aroma of fried onions. Stir-fried vegetables and heaps of hot rice completed the rustic dinner, which we devoured with relish. After dinner, Nordin, one of the guides, regaled us with stories from their community. We sat, bathed in the glow of a campfire and listened intently. 

The Jakun are a spiritual people. Their way of life and history are tied to a strong set of beliefs carried through generations. Nordin is careful to preface his stories, saying that he is forbidden to embellish the tales told to him by the elders. Silhouetted by the campfire, Nordin tells us the tale of Bihong, the giant frog that swallowed a child. “This happened along this river,” he says, pointing to the river now shrouded in darkness. The terrible incident had initially terrified the five families living along the river, but in the end it united them and ultimately led them to settle in the village where this Jakun community now lives. 

The Jakun are cautious not to offend the guardians and spirits of the woods, and to them it is in the forest where the different realms intersect. Even for something as simple as constructing our

campsite, Nordin says permission had to be sought from the village elders as this may disturb the spirits. 

Ecotourism that reveres culture and nature 

This excursion is a preview of an initiative supported by the Earthworm Foundation that helps communities create sustainable ecotourism opportunities. At this point, the organisation’s mission was to see that this Orang Asli endeavour is successful and to get valuable feedback. Our small group was made up of the Earthworm Foundation team and other stakeholders; we were here to show support, offer advice and root for our Jakun guides’ success. 

The strong bond that the Jakun have with the elements is precisely what sets this excursion apart from a usual hike and camp in the woods. Bejay Giloi Yapp, the manager of smallholder and community transformation for the Earthworm Foundation sees a lot of value in preserving the culture of this community and showcasing it to the public. Yapp is part of the team helping Zhe Ngingoig with the setup. “I was very surprised when they showed so much interest in creating this programme,” says Yapp, who saw the number of those who wanted to be part of this initiative grow very quickly. 

Yapp’s team had consulted the community asking them what they needed as a means of income diversification, and they had chosen this. “Ecotourism was a dream they had wanted to do for a long time,” he says, but they lacked the know-how to get started. The Earthworm Foundation offered capacity building skills that included guide certification, forest safety, operational training and collaboration opportunities to the community, and is considering additional programmes such as cooking workshops. 

Yapp admits that it is the community’s enthusiasm that makes this excursion programme work. The goal for the Earthworm Foundation is that the community would be able to run the programme on their own and create a sustainable business for themselves.    

Day 2: Ulu Kemelai waterfalls

Nordin took over guiding duties the next day, and after breakfast we headed to the Ulu Kemelai waterfalls. Along the way, he referred to the previous night’s stories and showed us a rock in the river that looks uncannily like the giant frog Bihong. 

While the Ulu Kemelai falls was not as impressive as the Jaang, there were rock ledges perfect for diving into the pool below. A few hours later, we were back at the campsite. We broke camp and made our way out of the forest where a delightful traditional meal awaited us in Kampung Sungai Mok. We nursed our hunger and dined with the village elders. Our spirits were high and we swapped stories, snapped pictures and vowed to stay in touch.  

It was difficult to leave this slice of paradise, and as I drove away, the fascinating folklore, the friendly people and the beautiful forest lingered in my mind. And yes, I do intend to keep my promise and return soon. 

The Kampung Sungai Mok excursion by the Zhe Ngingoig is now open for registration. 

For more information, call Rosdi at 010-906 9556 or Zebby at 011-16911651.

Writer: Eric Ian Chan
Editor: Sumei Toh
Initiative by: Earthworm Foundation