The Habitat Foundation’s Conservation and Sustainability Team Lead, Ethan Pang rediscovers Sarawak’s cultural and natural heritage and uncovers conservation challenges faced by the locals.

Longhouse in Long Lellang just across from the airport runway. Photo by Ethan Pang.

A Tiny Plane Adventure

Growing up in Peninsular Malaysia, I only had superficial knowledge about our fellow countrymen and women in East Malaysia; I admit I was almost oblivious to their history.

The opportunity for me to gain a deeper understanding of Sarawak became imminent when the Society of Wilderness Nature Education (SOW Nature Education) sought a new generation of educators and interpreters for their educational expeditions to Long Lellang, a small village located deep in the Kelabit Highlands of Sarawak.

The adventure started with a MASwings flight from Miri that offered a thrilling, window-seat view of a changing landscape. Bustling cities morphed into a tapestry of monoculture plantations, remote villages nestled amidst lush greenery, and the mighty Baram River snaking its way through virgin rainforests. It was a “classroom in the clouds,” offering an aerial view of human impact on the environment.

Our journey begins with boarding the small aircraft, MASwings. Photo by Ethan Pang.

Warm Welcomes and Exploring Long Lellang

Day 1: Welcome to Long Lellang, A Journey Awaits
Landing in Long Lellang, we were warmly welcomed by Francis, a Kelabit coffee farmer who has collaborated with SOW since 2014 to bring visitors on excursions on the culture of Long Lellang. We also had the privilege of meeting his Kayan wife, Rosna, the backbone of each expedition as she diligently manages the bills, payments, hiring of porters and guides, as well as arranges food and accommodations for all guests.

Francis (left) and his wife, Rosna (right) warmly welcomed us to Long Lellang. Photos by Ethan Pang.

We began our journey with Daniel, our local Penan guide, who led us on a 45-minute slow hike through the lowland forest to our campsite—a simple set-up designed to minimise its environmental impact whilst providing a degree of comfort. There is no electricity or heated water, but I felt deeply rooted to the forest and amazed by how much I have yet to learn about Long Lellang.

The elevated hut where we camped during our stay in the forest. Photo by Ethan Pang.

Days 2–4: Learn and Relearn the Forest Grounds
Discovering and exploring the mixed dipterocarp forest and the restored kerangas (in Iban: land on which rice cannot be grown; also known as tropical heath forest) over the next three days left me captivated. We embarked on forest explorations; and while wildlife encounters were minimal, I found myself captivated by the overabundance of plants that were uncommon elsewhere.

Every Orang Ulu meal I had was a unique dining experience. I especially looked forward
to the fragrant bario rice, stir-fried pucuk manis with egg, wild ginger and tapioca leaves.
Photo by Ethan Pang.

The Huntsman spider is abundant in the forest around the campsite. Photo by Ethan Pang.

A frog species that is often found sitting in this position on low tree trunks. Photo by Ethan Pang.

I consider myself fortunate to experience the kerangas forest. It is a forest type that thrives on podzolized siliceous sand (poorly developed soil), which is rare in the Peninsula. I was amazed at how well the forest had recovered from small-scale rice farming and is now thriving.

Day 4: A Coffee Farm Visit
Leaving the campsite, we stopped at Francis’ house briefly before embarking on a one-hour boat ride to his coffee farm 14 km downstream from Long Lellang, where we spent the night. While I am no stranger to boat rides on wooden sampans, this was an incomparable experience to previous trips.

Boat ride to the coffee farm. Some of the lands by the riverbank of Akkah River are cultivated by the locals. Photo by Ethan Pang.

Along the way, I watched along as the scenery changed along the riverbanks, alternating between villages, cultivated lands, secondary forests, riverine forests, and more. We made an impromptu stop at Rosna’s brother’s farm for tarap (Artocarpus odoratissimus), a Bornean native wild plant turned crop plant, a close cousin of the jackfruit and cempedak.

One of the best ways to enjoy tarap. Photo by Ethan Pang.

The coffee farm is nestled between an undisturbed mixed dipterocarp forest across the river, and an undisturbed kerangas forest behind. Francis gave us a tour of his farm, sharing his experiences and challenges of growing Liberian coffee (Coffea liberica).

Our accommodation at Francis’ coffee farm. Photo by Ethan Pang.

Hands-on experience of roasting coffee beans and cupping. Photo by Ethan Pang.

Despite not being a coffee drinker myself, the opportunity for a hands-on experience of roasting the beans, grinding, cupping (coffee tasting), brewing, and finally savouring the coffee, was a delightful experience.

Beyond Exploration: Unveiling the Challenges of Conservation

My trip was not just about exploring a new part of Malaysia; it was a chance to learn and relearn valuable lessons about conservation from a unique perspective. A visit to the Piasau Nature Reserve in Miri at the very start of our trip offered a glimpse into Sarawak’s successful community-driven conservation efforts. The story of how a former secondary forest and former housing estate planned for development was transformed into a protected area, spearheaded by residents collaborating with the Malaysian Nature Society, underscored the power of collective action in safeguarding natural beauty.

The true heart of the SOW Nature Education’s experience, however, lay in understanding the challenges and opportunities for conservation within the context of Sarawak’s unique land rights framework. Much of the forested area is classified as Native Customary Land, where ownership is claimed through traditional practices. This framework presents both challenges and opportunities. Logging companies may approach locals with deals to purchase ancestral land, while community members themselves may convert land for other uses.

A Model for Sustainable Coexistence

SOW’s presence in Long Lellang demonstrates a successful model for sustainable coexistence. Rosna’s father, Atok Jok, exemplifies this approach. He firmly believes in preserving the pristine forest, stopping wildlife hunting, and utilising ecotourism as a way to benefit from the land. Atok Jok allows SOW Nature Education to use his forested land for educational expeditions, while retaining land rights and generating income. This mutually beneficial partnership offers a glimmer of hope for the future of Sarawak’s rainforests.

Empowering the Community: Jobs and a Sustainable Future

The impact of SOW Nature Education extends far beyond environmental education. Their operations create vital job opportunities for locals as forest guides, cooks, porters, and boatmen. Slowly but surely, more villagers are recognizing the potential of preserving their traditional way of life, which is intricately linked to the forest, while earning a livelihood through responsible tourism. This newfound appreciation for conservation, coupled with educational initiatives like SOW Nature Education’s, offers a path towards a sustainable future for Long Lellang and its surrounding rainforests.

A Journey of Transformation: Inspired to Make a Difference

My journey served as a powerful reminder for the importance of continuous learning and reevaluating preconceptions. It underscored the beauty of Sarawak’s natural landscapes and the vital role local communities play in their preservation. The work of SOW Nature Education in Long Lellang offers a beacon of hope, demonstrating that successful conservation can be achieved through collaboration, education, and respect for traditional land ownership. Inspired by this experience, I returned home determined to become an advocate for environmental protection in my own corner of Malaysia.

If you are looking for an adventure that goes beyond the tourist trail, consider a trip to Sarawak. You might just find yourself on a tiny MASwings flight, embarking on a journey of discovery that combines a touch of adrenaline, a deep appreciation for nature’s resilience, and a newfound understanding of the complexities and triumphs of conservation efforts in Malaysia.

Find out more about SOW Nature Education here.

Writer: Ethan Pang Yi Heng (The Habitat Foundation)
Edited by: Eric Shaun Seaton and Rebecca Anne Chin (The Habitat Foundation)