By: Dharkshen Selva
Dharkshen Selva’s curiosity towards the wilderness have taken her to jungles and remote islands in Southeast Asia, often joining crowds of backpackers with a passion for Borneo. Here, she shares her tips on journeying into Kinabatangan, Sabah’s freshwater habitat extraordinaire.
Crew-packed weekend at Kinabatangan River, May 2024. Photo by Dharkshen Selva
Think of Borneo, and the forest and its residents bring it to life: the orangutan swinging gracefully through the canopy while pigtail macaques scurry in troops below. Elusive pygmy elephants leave subtle trails as they move in herds, and crocodiles lurk with cunning eyes just above the water’s surface.
Quiet mornings. Photo by Romy.ell
It is the need to unlock this mysterious place that led me to explore the Kinabatangan River. This guide is a result of those journeys—emphasizing the importance of conscious travel in extraordinary places, with tips to help you narrate your own story along this magnificent river.
The Kinabatangan connects coastal towns with the forest interior. Photo credit: Zarnizar
The Kinabatangan stretches 560 km, the longest river in Sabah, its catchment covering nearly 23% of Sabah’s land area. For locals, it is a lifeline—providing water, fish, and fertile soil for farming. Historically, it was a vital trade route for Chinese merchants seeking treasures like edible swiftlet nests, beeswax, rattan, and ivory. During British rule, the river became a key transport route for hardwood timber harvested from surrounding forests.
I visited Kinabatangan twice, and each time its breathtaking wildlife and resilient freshwater swamp rainforests left me in awe. From tiny critters to majestic giants, the Kinabatangan River is a sanctuary for wildlife of all shapes and sizes.
Experiencing Kinabatangan
Upon reaching Sukau village, I was led to a small but sturdy ten-seater boat. As we made our way westward, the narrow channel gradually opened into the vast expanse of the river. Ninety minutes in, the boat gently eased against the dock of our homestay. We were greeted with refreshing drinks to settle in and prepare for the much-anticipated explorations ahead.
“Crocodiles are easy. They try to kill and eat you. People are harder. Sometimes they pretend to be your friend first.” Words by Steve Irwin. Captured by Romy.ell
Back on the boat we passed fruiting fig trees, and were immediately greeted by a hungry silvery lutung hanging low on the foliage. (Tip: Binoculars or a camera with zoom lenses are invaluable here, as these primates often prefer the upper canopies.)
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Next up were the southern pig-tailed macaques who ganged up and displayed against us. Our guide, Osman, narrated each sighting with practiced ease while skillfully maneuvering the boat deeper into the jungle. A sense of anticipation was in the air, a feeling that something extraordinary lay just ahead.
Osman docked against a bush, instructed us to hush, and disappeared into the jungle to look for fresh footprints and manure of the gentle giants. He was back in a flash, and told us to follow him quietly. Several steps in, I heard a low rumble that sent a vibration through the earth to the core of my body. Hiding behind branches, we caught sight of her: a mother elephant, warning us with her commanding presence to maintain a distance while shielding her calf, who peered at us with curiosity.
This was just three hours after arriving at this freshwater swamp paradise. It would be impossible to recount the entire three-day adventure here.
Endemic to the island of Borneo, the pygmy elephant (𝘌𝘭𝘦𝘱𝘩𝘢𝘴 𝘮𝘢𝘹𝘪𝘮𝘶𝘴) is found in Sabah, living in the Kinabatangan floodplain. Captured by Robin Phillipo.
Choosing Conscious Wildlife Experiences and Operators
Traveling responsibly here is about embracing simplicity, appreciating nature and being respectful of local culture. Here are two personal recommendations.
Osman’s Homestay
A local legend known as an “elephant whisperer”, Osman has guided Sir David Attenborough and other BBC filmmakers through habitats where wild orangutans hang low from trees and herds of pygmy elephants walk past in the early mornings.
Osman’s night spotting adventure. Captured by Dharkshen Selva
Osman’s ideology and sustainable approach to his tours make him a favorable option among wildlife enthusiasts seeking a comfortable shelter and experienced guide.
His homestay is located along the lower Kinabatangan River, an ideal place to spot Borneo pygmy elephants and other incredible wildlife. During my stay, I saw otters, several species of hornbills, freshwater crocodiles, and more.
The homestay features clean basic rooms with electricity, but without hot water. Meals are prepared by Osman’s wife and served family-style, offering a taste of home-cooked local dishes.
Uncle Tan Widlife Adventures
Uncle Tan was a man of many talents, a passionate environmental activist with a rich knowledge of natural history who started promoting sustainable tourism in the early 1990s. While he has passed on, his legacy of showcasing the treasures of Kinabatangan to budget travellers and nature lovers live on. Learn about his journey setting up ‘Uncle Tan Wildlife Adventures’ here.
My stay was very enjoyable as the guides and other guests offered a jovial experience with live jamming sessions, volleyball evenings and geeking out over wildlife encounters while enjoying home-cooked meals. My sister and mother however, needed a bit of time to adjust to the basics—doorless rooms with just a bed, a pillow, a thin blanket, a mosquito net … and open-air showers. In the end, they embraced it and still fondly remember the moments spent with the local community and the environment. A two-night, three-day stay was just nice for our family.
Findings during our night walk at the jungle trail behind Uncle Tan’s lodge. Photos by Dharkshen Selva
What to Expect During Wildlife Watching
It depends on how much time you have. On my first trip with Osman’s Homestay, I enjoyed two night safaris, an early morning session, and an afternoon boat trip. With Uncle Tan, we did two early morning boat rides, a night boat ride, and a jungle night trek.
Here are some tips for each session:
Early Morning: Early birds catch the best sightings, especially active birds and elusive wildlife. The mornings are when animals are most active.
Afternoon: It can get really hot, so bring a hat, sunscreen, and shades. Just like us, animals seek shelter from the midday sun.
Night Safari: It can get chilly at night, so a jacket is a good idea. Follow your guide’s instructions and be mindful where you point your torchlight. To look for wildlife, watch out for eye reflections.
Pack the Essentials
As a wildlife enthusiast, one must be equipped with the right tools to truly reap the rewards of what the wilderness has to offer.
As animals of higher maintenance, it is encouraged to be equipped for wild spaces. Collage by Dharkshen Selva
Life beyond wildlife in the Kinabatangan
Having visited Kinabatangan twice, my observation evolved beyond wildlife watching. When moments presented themselves, the daily life of the Orang Sungai (river people) seemed equally as fascinating. Parents instinctively ensure their little ones don’t fall into the river, school children and working adults are sent off to the modern world on small wooden boats, the head of the family and his partner enjoy time together on their weekly grocery run, while the boatman disappears underwater to clean the algae off the bottom of his boat—a simple task that can turn south at any given moment. The people do make the place. To recognize the beauty of our natural spaces is to get muddy yourself. Here’s hoping this guide has given you a glimpse into one of Borneo’s most sought-after destinations.
Humans of Kinabatangan. Collage by Dharkshen Selva
Ketahui lebih lanjut:
Book a stay with Osman on tripsadvisor.
Discover Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Adventure di sini.